Each year thousands of people trek to Machu Picchu. The most famous treks include the Inca Trial, Salkantey, and Choquequirao treks. These treks are no doubt amazing hikes, if you don’t mind the scarcity of permits and hundreds of other hikers. But, if you dislike the ordinary, love a challenge, and are in great shape, than the Vilcabamba trek to Machu Picchu might be for you.
Of all the treks that end at Machu Picchu, the trek from Vilcabamba is the hardest, most isolated, and least traveled. There are no huts, no towns, no true campsites. It is you and the Andean mountains for four days. The trek is very hard, but there are some amazing rewards. Along the trek there are several Inca ruin sites, including the ruins at Vitcos. The views are breathtaking which makes the steep accents worth the pain. At the end of the day you have bragging rights that no one else does.
From the town of Huancacalle, the trek follows an old Incan road, now barely more than a cow path, for more than 30 miles over three 14,000 foot peaks to the town of Yanatile. Once in Yanatile, you can take a car/bus to the Hydro Electric Station and from there hike, or ride the train to Aguas Calientes.
Of all the treks that end at Machu Picchu, the trek from Vilcabamba is the hardest, most isolated, and least traveled. There are no huts, no towns, no true campsites. It is you and the Andean mountains for four days. The trek is very hard, but there are some amazing rewards. Along the trek there are several Inca ruin sites, including the ruins at Vitcos. The views are breathtaking which makes the steep accents worth the pain. At the end of the day you have bragging rights that no one else does.
From the town of Huancacalle, the trek follows an old Incan road, now barely more than a cow path, for more than 30 miles over three 14,000 foot peaks to the town of Yanatile. Once in Yanatile, you can take a car/bus to the Hydro Electric Station and from there hike, or ride the train to Aguas Calientes.
Introduction:
The main goal of this write up is to provide information so others are able to successfully complete this amazing trek.
When we decided to hike the Vilcabamba trek, there was very little information about it online. There were no maps, only brief descriptions, and no pictures to aid in trip planning. After several months of planning and research, we were able to compile enough information allowing us to complete the trek. We have compiled all the information we gathered during planning, and on the trek, to better equip anyone who is interested in the Vilcabamba trek to Machu Picchu.
We have also included some helpful information on cities such as Cusco, Aguas Calientes, lodging, and how to buy tickets to Machu Picchu. Even if you are not doing the Vilcabamba trek, some of the information included could be very valuable. For example, buying passes to Machu Picchu is not as straight forward as TicketMaster or some other online ticket site. Therefore, we have included a full guide on how to purchase tickets. Maybe you are unsure where to stay in Cusco, we have included details about the hostel we used and other information about the city.
Throughout this site you will find maps of specific locations and of the entire trip. Most of the maps are interactive allowing you to scroll, zoom, and select points. Clicking the small, white box in the upper right corner of the map header will open a new window with a full screen version of the map. Once a full screen version of the map is open, there will be a legend on the left side. This will tell you what certain points and trails are. Also, in legend you can change to satellite images to better see the terrain and other features.
Included at the bottom of the page are pictures from our trip and a video showing what the trek was like. Hopefully you find the information included informative and interesting. If there is any further information you would like, please contact us and we will assist in anyway possible.
When we decided to hike the Vilcabamba trek, there was very little information about it online. There were no maps, only brief descriptions, and no pictures to aid in trip planning. After several months of planning and research, we were able to compile enough information allowing us to complete the trek. We have compiled all the information we gathered during planning, and on the trek, to better equip anyone who is interested in the Vilcabamba trek to Machu Picchu.
We have also included some helpful information on cities such as Cusco, Aguas Calientes, lodging, and how to buy tickets to Machu Picchu. Even if you are not doing the Vilcabamba trek, some of the information included could be very valuable. For example, buying passes to Machu Picchu is not as straight forward as TicketMaster or some other online ticket site. Therefore, we have included a full guide on how to purchase tickets. Maybe you are unsure where to stay in Cusco, we have included details about the hostel we used and other information about the city.
Throughout this site you will find maps of specific locations and of the entire trip. Most of the maps are interactive allowing you to scroll, zoom, and select points. Clicking the small, white box in the upper right corner of the map header will open a new window with a full screen version of the map. Once a full screen version of the map is open, there will be a legend on the left side. This will tell you what certain points and trails are. Also, in legend you can change to satellite images to better see the terrain and other features.
Included at the bottom of the page are pictures from our trip and a video showing what the trek was like. Hopefully you find the information included informative and interesting. If there is any further information you would like, please contact us and we will assist in anyway possible.
This write up covers many different aspects of the Vilcabamba trek to Machu Picchu broken down into several sections:
- The Trek: What each day of the trek looked like, trail and weather conditions, and other aspects of each day of the trek.
- Machu Picchu: How to get passes and other general information.
- Travel: How to get to and from the trailhead as well as things like cost and maps.
- Route Info: Maps and GPS coordinate from our trek.
- Gear: What gear you will need including our recommendations for food.
- Next Time: What we would do differently if we were to do the trip again.
- Pictures: Pictures from the trek including our visit to Machu Picchu.
- Video: Footage from our trek.
The Trek:
Day 1: Huancacalle to Nusta Hispana
We arrived in Huancacalle around 6:45pm (see Travel section below) and had to walk through the town to the trail head. Once on the other side of the town, there was a bridge on the left side of the road that crossed the river. Shortly after crossing the bridge we found ourselves at a fork in the trail. One way lead to Vitcos and the other to Choquequirao. We followed the trail toward Vitcos. Around 8:30pm we reached the ruins of Nusta Hispana and decided to make camp. The ruins are surrounded by a low wall and we entered the gate and camped inside because the ground was drier and there was less horse manure.
Day 1: Huancacalle to Nusta Hispana
We arrived in Huancacalle around 6:45pm (see Travel section below) and had to walk through the town to the trail head. Once on the other side of the town, there was a bridge on the left side of the road that crossed the river. Shortly after crossing the bridge we found ourselves at a fork in the trail. One way lead to Vitcos and the other to Choquequirao. We followed the trail toward Vitcos. Around 8:30pm we reached the ruins of Nusta Hispana and decided to make camp. The ruins are surrounded by a low wall and we entered the gate and camped inside because the ground was drier and there was less horse manure.
Ruins at Nusta Hispana
Even though Huancacalle is located at 10,000 feet, the humidity and temperature were both very high. By the time we reached Nusta Hispana both of us had worked up quite a sweat. Sunset in April was around 5:30 and because we were deep in the mountains there was almost no twilight hours. We hiked the entire way from Huancacalle in the dark, which with good headlamps, was not too difficult.
Late that night it started to rain. Even though we were in Peru at the end of the rainy season, it rained every day we were hiking. In the morning it was still raining, but let up around 7:00am allowing us to break camp.
There are several things we would change about the hiking timeline, mostly revolving around the first day, see “Next Time” section further down.
Late that night it started to rain. Even though we were in Peru at the end of the rainy season, it rained every day we were hiking. In the morning it was still raining, but let up around 7:00am allowing us to break camp.
There are several things we would change about the hiking timeline, mostly revolving around the first day, see “Next Time” section further down.
Day 2: Nusta Hispana to Racachaca
After breaking camp, we cooked and ate breakfast among the ruins. We then explored the ruins at Nusta Hispana for about 30-45 minutes and then hiked on toward Vitcos. The trail to Vitcos ran out of the ruins on the opposite side of the gate we entered the night before. From the ruins, the trail climbs steadily with sprawling fields and the river on the valley floor to the right of the trail. After an hour or so of hiking, we reached Vitcos.
After breaking camp, we cooked and ate breakfast among the ruins. We then explored the ruins at Nusta Hispana for about 30-45 minutes and then hiked on toward Vitcos. The trail to Vitcos ran out of the ruins on the opposite side of the gate we entered the night before. From the ruins, the trail climbs steadily with sprawling fields and the river on the valley floor to the right of the trail. After an hour or so of hiking, we reached Vitcos.
The ruins at Vitcos.
As we approached Vitcos, the view was incredible. The ruins sits on a small plateau overlooking beautiful valleys on three sides. While nowhere near the size of Machu Picchu, Vitcos is still an impressive small ruins site free of tourist. The area around Vitcos is well manicured which makes exploring the ruins very easy. There were no other people around so we had the entire site to ourselves.
Leaving Vitcos, we backtracked, along the same trail by which we arrived, toward Nusta Hispana. Shortly after passing Nusta Hispana, the trail split and we took the left trail toward Racachaca. Not far from the first fork, the trail again diverged. We stayed right at the second fork, which was incorrect, and a local quickly alerted us that we were on the wrong trail. Thankfully we had not gone far and hiked back to the fork and followed the left trail. The weather was beautiful as we passed through a small farming village, the last before we reached Yanitle, and started our ascent.
Leaving Vitcos, we backtracked, along the same trail by which we arrived, toward Nusta Hispana. Shortly after passing Nusta Hispana, the trail split and we took the left trail toward Racachaca. Not far from the first fork, the trail again diverged. We stayed right at the second fork, which was incorrect, and a local quickly alerted us that we were on the wrong trail. Thankfully we had not gone far and hiked back to the fork and followed the left trail. The weather was beautiful as we passed through a small farming village, the last before we reached Yanitle, and started our ascent.
View from the first pass at 13,000 feet.
The first full day of hiking toward Yanitle started with an all day ascent to over 13,000 feet. Steep, muddy trails, sometimes barely more than a cow path, wound up into the mountains for over 4 miles. When we left Nusta Hispana, we were just a touch above 10,000 feet and by late afternoon we crested the first pass. From there, the trail dropped rapidly as we hiked toward Racachaca. Over the next 3 miles of trail we dropped to just above 11,000 feet, and then started climbing again. The last mile of the trial climbed around 800 feet and there we stopped for the night.
We reached the area we believed to be Racachaca around 6:00pm, just as the light was starting to fade. From what we gathered from our homemade GPS waypoints, Rachacha is no more than three thatched-roof huts which provide shelter for horses or cows. Unfortunately, it was on the far side of the river and all the bridges in the immediate area were washed out. We hiked along the river for another 30 minutes hoping to find a crossing, but had no luck. Eventually we ended up pitching out tent on a dry patch of grass and called it a day. As we were making camp, it began to rain again. It rained most of the night and into the next morning.
We reached the area we believed to be Racachaca around 6:00pm, just as the light was starting to fade. From what we gathered from our homemade GPS waypoints, Rachacha is no more than three thatched-roof huts which provide shelter for horses or cows. Unfortunately, it was on the far side of the river and all the bridges in the immediate area were washed out. We hiked along the river for another 30 minutes hoping to find a crossing, but had no luck. Eventually we ended up pitching out tent on a dry patch of grass and called it a day. As we were making camp, it began to rain again. It rained most of the night and into the next morning.
Day 3: Racachaca to Mutuypata
The view from the first 14,000 foot pass.
As with the day before, the rain stopped shortly after sunrise allowing us to break camp and around 7:00am we were back on the trail. The temperature was noticeably cooler than the day before due to the altitude and heavy cloud cover promising more rain. We hiked about a mile before we found a bridge over the river that would allow for access to Racachaca, but there was no reason to backtrack so we pushed forward.
The day started with another brutal ascent. We had made camp around 11,500 feet and spent the first 3 miles climbing to over 14,000 feet. After crossing 14,000 ft, there was some elevation change both up and down, but not much. The next 4-5 miles of trail were spent above 14,000 feet with the last pass reaching over 14,800 feet. Once we had crossed the final pass, the trail descended rapidly. Over the last 2 miles of the day, we hiked down to 12,500 feet before making camp.
It rained off and on all day adding to the difficulty of the steep ascent. Not only did it make our packs and cloths wet and heavy, but the mud became deeper. Close to the top of the first pass, it started to hail. We hiked through over an hour of hail as we continued our ascent. As we climbed the temperature dropped rapidly and by the time we had reached 14,000 feet it was very cold.
The day started with another brutal ascent. We had made camp around 11,500 feet and spent the first 3 miles climbing to over 14,000 feet. After crossing 14,000 ft, there was some elevation change both up and down, but not much. The next 4-5 miles of trail were spent above 14,000 feet with the last pass reaching over 14,800 feet. Once we had crossed the final pass, the trail descended rapidly. Over the last 2 miles of the day, we hiked down to 12,500 feet before making camp.
It rained off and on all day adding to the difficulty of the steep ascent. Not only did it make our packs and cloths wet and heavy, but the mud became deeper. Close to the top of the first pass, it started to hail. We hiked through over an hour of hail as we continued our ascent. As we climbed the temperature dropped rapidly and by the time we had reached 14,000 feet it was very cold.
Hiking in the clouds at nearly 15,000 feet.
We had reached the first pass around lunchtime and stopped to eat on a beautiful overlook of the valley below. Shortly after lunch, heavy clouds rolled in blocking our view of the surrounding mountains and valleys for the rest of the day. The next few hours of hiking were as hard as any we would encounter on the trek. Our bodies were struggling with the thin air, it was raining, and the trail kept descending and climbing again and again.
It was nearly sunset when we crossed the third and final pass. From there, the trail descended so rapidly that it felt harder than the ascent. The trail was incredibly steep and full of loose and slippery rocks worsened by the past few days of rain. We were exhausted but we were rushing down the mountain trying to find a camping spot before we lost all light. Somewhere near the area we think was Mutuypata, we found a pasture with a relatively flat area and made camp just as it got dark. Thankfully it was not raining when we made camp, but shortly after cooking dinner it started up again.
It was nearly sunset when we crossed the third and final pass. From there, the trail descended so rapidly that it felt harder than the ascent. The trail was incredibly steep and full of loose and slippery rocks worsened by the past few days of rain. We were exhausted but we were rushing down the mountain trying to find a camping spot before we lost all light. Somewhere near the area we think was Mutuypata, we found a pasture with a relatively flat area and made camp just as it got dark. Thankfully it was not raining when we made camp, but shortly after cooking dinner it started up again.
Day 4: Mutuypata to Yanitile
Waking up to rain on the fourth day was disheartening, but we had hope knowing the trail was all downhill to Yanitile, unfortunately we did not know how “downhill” it was. As with the other mornings, the rain stopped after sunrise and we broke camp for the last time. When we starting hiking, the temperature was still very low, and thick clouds promised more rain.
The brutal descent we had encountered the night before continued for several miles. The trail was still rocky and slippery with an occasional change where there were large areas of thick mud. After a few hours of intense descent, the trail entered a thick, jungle-like forest. Thankfully, the trail turned into a more well traveled, harder pack track at this point. The descent was still steep, but the trail consisted of more switchbacks which helped.
The brutal descent we had encountered the night before continued for several miles. The trail was still rocky and slippery with an occasional change where there were large areas of thick mud. After a few hours of intense descent, the trail entered a thick, jungle-like forest. Thankfully, the trail turned into a more well traveled, harder pack track at this point. The descent was still steep, but the trail consisted of more switchbacks which helped.
Snow capped peaks of Pumasillu.
After hiking out of the forest we lost the trail and spent almost an hour trying to find where we should go. The trail ended in a small field with no signs of the trail on the other side. Eventually we the next section of trail hidden by a cliff which we could not see until we stumbled upon it. Less than a mile from the point we were lost, the trail crossed a bridge and landed on a dirt/gravel road that wound its way to Yanitile.
Once on the road, hiking became slightly easier as it was more level, with less mud and loose footing. The descent was still steep, but more manageable on the road. Although it was originally meant for cars, many sections had washed out or were blocked by rockslides making it only passable by foot. We passed several small farms on the road, but only saw one person during our time on the road. After about 6 miles we reached Yanitile.
One of the first houses we passed in Yanatile appeared to double as a small convenient store with a van parked in the street. We knocked on the door. After waiting a few minutes, a man came out and we asked if he would take us to Hydroelectric Station. He spoke no english, so communicating was difficult, but he eventually understood our request. We promptly loaded up and headed out of Yanitile.
The road from Yanitile to the Hydro Electric Station was a winding, tight, single lane dirt road. On one side was the mountain wall, on the other a massive drop to the riverbed below. As with all the mountain roads in Peru, there were no guard rails and hundreds of blind corners. The drive to the Hydroelectric station took about 2 hours and we arrived shortly before 3:30pm. Getting to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu are covered in the Travel section below.
Once on the road, hiking became slightly easier as it was more level, with less mud and loose footing. The descent was still steep, but more manageable on the road. Although it was originally meant for cars, many sections had washed out or were blocked by rockslides making it only passable by foot. We passed several small farms on the road, but only saw one person during our time on the road. After about 6 miles we reached Yanitile.
One of the first houses we passed in Yanatile appeared to double as a small convenient store with a van parked in the street. We knocked on the door. After waiting a few minutes, a man came out and we asked if he would take us to Hydroelectric Station. He spoke no english, so communicating was difficult, but he eventually understood our request. We promptly loaded up and headed out of Yanitile.
The road from Yanitile to the Hydro Electric Station was a winding, tight, single lane dirt road. On one side was the mountain wall, on the other a massive drop to the riverbed below. As with all the mountain roads in Peru, there were no guard rails and hundreds of blind corners. The drive to the Hydroelectric station took about 2 hours and we arrived shortly before 3:30pm. Getting to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu are covered in the Travel section below.
Machu Picchu:
Tickets:
Machu Picchu with Huayna Picchu in the backgroud
There are two ways to purchase ticket to Machu Picchu, online or from the official ticket office. There are ticket offices in Cusco, Aguas Calientes, and some other large cities such as Lima. It is best to buy your tickets as far in advance as possible because there are only 2,500 passes for each day. If you plan on doing the Huayna Picchu hike, sometimes called Wayna Picchu, you should plan on buying tickets months in advance because there are only 400 passes a day. During the busy season the passes to Huayna Picchu become very hard to get and are typically sold out through the entire tourist season.
Purchasing tickets online is a tricky process that ended up taking us over two days to figure out. Some of that time was due to some error on the credit card company, but the process is complicated none the less. The only way to pay for tickets online is with a Visa credit card that had been "Visa Verified". If you do not have a Visa Verified credit card, you will be unable to buy tickets online. Attached below is a document outlining how to "Verify" your Visa credit card and how to navigate the Machu Picchu ticket website
Purchasing tickets online is a tricky process that ended up taking us over two days to figure out. Some of that time was due to some error on the credit card company, but the process is complicated none the less. The only way to pay for tickets online is with a Visa credit card that had been "Visa Verified". If you do not have a Visa Verified credit card, you will be unable to buy tickets online. Attached below is a document outlining how to "Verify" your Visa credit card and how to navigate the Machu Picchu ticket website
| Guide To Buying Passes to Machu Picchu |
Huayna Picchu:
This coveted hike winds up a treacherous trail to the top of Huayna Picchu overlooking Machu Picchu. The trail is basically a mile long stair case ending at the top of the Huayna Picchu ruins. Wet, small, slippery rocks make up most of the trail. Footing is very poor making the hike rather dangerous, but the view is incredible. Looking down over all of Machu Picchu is spectacular. The weather can pose a challenge to partaking of the majestic view from Huayna Picchu, but if you are lucky enough to get a break in the clouds, it is a once in a life time experience.
There are two hiking times for Huayna Picchu, 7:00am and 10:00am. During the morning, even in the dry season, Machu Picchu is often covered in clouds. The clouds obstruct the view from Huayna Picchu making the 10:00am hike more desirable because of the increased chance of an amazing view. Unfortunately, there are only 400 passes a day available to hike Huayna Picchu. There are 200 passes for the 7:00am hike and another 200 for the 10:00am hike. These coveted passes sell out months in advance so plan ahead of time if you want the opportunity to hike Huayna Picchu.
This coveted hike winds up a treacherous trail to the top of Huayna Picchu overlooking Machu Picchu. The trail is basically a mile long stair case ending at the top of the Huayna Picchu ruins. Wet, small, slippery rocks make up most of the trail. Footing is very poor making the hike rather dangerous, but the view is incredible. Looking down over all of Machu Picchu is spectacular. The weather can pose a challenge to partaking of the majestic view from Huayna Picchu, but if you are lucky enough to get a break in the clouds, it is a once in a life time experience.
There are two hiking times for Huayna Picchu, 7:00am and 10:00am. During the morning, even in the dry season, Machu Picchu is often covered in clouds. The clouds obstruct the view from Huayna Picchu making the 10:00am hike more desirable because of the increased chance of an amazing view. Unfortunately, there are only 400 passes a day available to hike Huayna Picchu. There are 200 passes for the 7:00am hike and another 200 for the 10:00am hike. These coveted passes sell out months in advance so plan ahead of time if you want the opportunity to hike Huayna Picchu.
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Navigating Machu Picchu:
Getting around Machu Picchu is very easy. Once the bus drops you off, you walk up a big flight of stairs to the entrance. There an attendant will scan your ticket and check your passport before letting you in. After that, Machu Picchu is yours to explore. Your ticket is good for the entire day. We even exited the ruins by accident and they just rescanned our tickets and let us back in. The only areas off limits to tourists are certain places being restored and the entrance to Huayna Picchu. During our trip, we started with the 7:00am hike to Huayna Picchu and made it back to Machu Picchu around 9:30. We then spent the rest of the morning walking around and taking pictures. Around 12:15pm we felt we had seen everything and caught the bus back to Aguas Calientes. There was a short line for the returning bus and we had to wait about 10 minutes before being able to board. |
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Things to be aware of:
You are not allowed to bring large backpacks or bags into Machu Picchu so plan accordingly. Small bags and backpacks are fine, but anything over 25L is where they take issue. At the entrance there is a building that offers bag storage while you explore Machu Picchu. We did not have bags with us so we did not find out the cost, but it is an option in case you have no other option to store large gear.
There is a restaurant outside the entrance and a store selling snack food and drinks. We would suggest taking water with you while walking around Machu Picchu. The weather can be very warm, and if you plan on exploring for several hours you will want to have water with you. Most people seemed to bring their own water, but there is the option of buying bottled water before entering.
There are lots of One-Way trails in Machu Picchu. In general, the trails funnel people down from the top toward the exit. To avoid having to exit and re-enter, start at the top of Machu Picchu, at or in the general direction of the Sun Gate, and work your way down. We had hiked Huayna Picchu first thing in the morning so we had to go there first, but afterward had to exit and re-enter to reach the upper portion of Machu Picchu.
You are not allowed to bring large backpacks or bags into Machu Picchu so plan accordingly. Small bags and backpacks are fine, but anything over 25L is where they take issue. At the entrance there is a building that offers bag storage while you explore Machu Picchu. We did not have bags with us so we did not find out the cost, but it is an option in case you have no other option to store large gear.
There is a restaurant outside the entrance and a store selling snack food and drinks. We would suggest taking water with you while walking around Machu Picchu. The weather can be very warm, and if you plan on exploring for several hours you will want to have water with you. Most people seemed to bring their own water, but there is the option of buying bottled water before entering.
There are lots of One-Way trails in Machu Picchu. In general, the trails funnel people down from the top toward the exit. To avoid having to exit and re-enter, start at the top of Machu Picchu, at or in the general direction of the Sun Gate, and work your way down. We had hiked Huayna Picchu first thing in the morning so we had to go there first, but afterward had to exit and re-enter to reach the upper portion of Machu Picchu.
Travel: (See map below for locations and routes)
View from the bus on the way to Quillabamba
Cusco to the Trailhead:
Getting to the trailhead is one of the trickier parts of the entire journey. There are no buses that run directly from Cusco to Huancacalle. The easiest way to get to Huancacalle is to take a bus from Cusco to Quillabamba and from there use the minibus or taxi service to reach Huancacalle.
There are two main bus options to Quillabamba, the minibus and a tour bus service, see interactive map below for terminal location in Cusco. The mini-bus service is no more than a 15 passenger van with a large luggage rack. These minibuses run from the Santo Domingo station to Quillabamba every day. The bus service also leaves from the same district as the mini-buses. With the tour bus service you can choose from several companies that all have buses going Quillabamba every day.
The advantage the minibus has is it is faster and leaves during the day. The disadvantage of the minibus is that it is more expensive (25 /sol) and they do not leave until they have a full bus. We waited almost 2 hours to leave for Quillabamba because the bus was not full.
The advantage of the tour bus service is that it is cheaper (15 /sol) and leaves at a specific time each day. The disadvantage of the bus service is that it takes longer and usually only leaves at 9pm.
Getting to the trailhead is one of the trickier parts of the entire journey. There are no buses that run directly from Cusco to Huancacalle. The easiest way to get to Huancacalle is to take a bus from Cusco to Quillabamba and from there use the minibus or taxi service to reach Huancacalle.
There are two main bus options to Quillabamba, the minibus and a tour bus service, see interactive map below for terminal location in Cusco. The mini-bus service is no more than a 15 passenger van with a large luggage rack. These minibuses run from the Santo Domingo station to Quillabamba every day. The bus service also leaves from the same district as the mini-buses. With the tour bus service you can choose from several companies that all have buses going Quillabamba every day.
The advantage the minibus has is it is faster and leaves during the day. The disadvantage of the minibus is that it is more expensive (25 /sol) and they do not leave until they have a full bus. We waited almost 2 hours to leave for Quillabamba because the bus was not full.
The advantage of the tour bus service is that it is cheaper (15 /sol) and leaves at a specific time each day. The disadvantage of the bus service is that it takes longer and usually only leaves at 9pm.
Another picture from the bus trip to Quillabamba
We opted for minibus option from Cusco to Quillabamba. Thinking we could get an early start, we arrived at the bus station at 8am and purchased our seats. Only later did we realize that the bus would not leave until it was full. We ended up having to wait till 9:45am before the bus filled up and we could depart. The route to Quillabamba wound through the mountains along perilous roads with stomach turning drops and very few guard rails. At one point we noticed the speed limit was 30Km/Hr, but our driver was doing well over 90Km/Hr down the twisting mountain road. The bus made only one stop along the way for the driver to eat lunch, which turned out to be the only time we could use the restroom during the drive. The bus arrived without incident in Quillabamba around 3:15pm
Once in Quillabamba we walked about half a mile down the street the the minibus station to Vilcabamba, see interactive map below. Huancacalle, the town we needed to reach, is a stop along the bus route to Vilcabamba. We told the driver that we needed to stop at Huancacalle, paid 15 /sol per person and hopped on the bus. Fortunately, the bus was almost full and we left Quillabamba 15 minutes after buying tickets to Huancacalle. Alternatively, you could take a taxi to Huancacalle. We do not know for sure that the service runs that far into the mountains, but many of the taxi’s were lifted with big tires leading us to believe that some drivers would make the trip.
The bus left Quillabamba around 3:35 and again we found ourselves on twisty mountain roads. Unlike the first leg of the trip, the roads to Huancacalle were single lane, dirt roads with even less guarding and higher drops then before. We arrived in Huancacalle around 6:45pm and walked down the street to find the trail head. See “The Hike” for everything after arriving in Huancacalle.
There are several things we would change about getting to the trailhead, but those are discussed in detail in the “Next Time” section further down.
Once in Quillabamba we walked about half a mile down the street the the minibus station to Vilcabamba, see interactive map below. Huancacalle, the town we needed to reach, is a stop along the bus route to Vilcabamba. We told the driver that we needed to stop at Huancacalle, paid 15 /sol per person and hopped on the bus. Fortunately, the bus was almost full and we left Quillabamba 15 minutes after buying tickets to Huancacalle. Alternatively, you could take a taxi to Huancacalle. We do not know for sure that the service runs that far into the mountains, but many of the taxi’s were lifted with big tires leading us to believe that some drivers would make the trip.
The bus left Quillabamba around 3:35 and again we found ourselves on twisty mountain roads. Unlike the first leg of the trip, the roads to Huancacalle were single lane, dirt roads with even less guarding and higher drops then before. We arrived in Huancacalle around 6:45pm and walked down the street to find the trail head. See “The Hike” for everything after arriving in Huancacalle.
There are several things we would change about getting to the trailhead, but those are discussed in detail in the “Next Time” section further down.
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MiniBus - Cusco to Quillabamba
Cost: 25 /sol per person Departed: Cusco at 9:45am Arrived: Quillabamba at 3:15pm MiniBus - Quillabamba to Huancacalle Cost: 15 /sol per person Departed: Quillabamba at 3:45pm Arrived: Huancacalle at 6:45pm |
Map of Cusco bus terminals to Quillabamba
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Map of Quillabamba bus terminals
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End of Trail to Machu Picchu:
The trail ended in the town of Yanatile, which was maybe a few dozen houses. Outside one of the first houses we came upon was a large van. We knocked on the door and said we needed to go to the Hydro Electric Station. The owner of the van did not speak any english, but communicated that it would be 65 /sol per person. He quickly changed clothes and we headed out. Again it was tight, single lane, dirt roads with massive drops and blind turns all the way to the Hydroelectric Station. We left Yanatile around 1:00pm and arrived at the Hydro Electric Station around 3:30pm.
Once at the Hydro Electric Station, we purchased train tickets to Aguas Calientes. Many people hike from the station to Aguas Calientes (about 6 miles), but we were exhausted so we purchased train tickets ($30). The train left the at 4:20pm and arrived in Aguas Calientes around 5:00pm. From there we walked to our hostel.
Car - Yanatile to the Hydroelectric Station
Cost: 65 /sol per person
Departed: Yanatile at 1:00pm
Arrived: Hydro Electric Station at 3:30pm
Train - Hydro Electric Station to Aguas Caliente
Cost: $30 per person
Departed: Hydro Electric Station at 4:20pm
Arrived: Aguas Caliente at 5:00pm
After checking into our hostel, we walked down the the bus pickup for Machu Picchu to buy tickets. There is a little kiosk across the street from where the buses pick up/drop off that sells tickets, see interactive map below. Round trip tickets to Machu Picchu were $24 per person. Buses leave Aguas Calientes every 15 minutes starting at 5:00am and run till around 6:00pm. The same bus service also brings you down the mountain, leaving every 15 minutes from Machu Picchu. We saw lots of people hiking from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu to avoid the bus fee. We were told it takes over an hour to hike up to Machu Picchu. The kiosk accepts Mastercard, USD, and /sol. There are several ATM's in Aguas Calientes at which you can withdraw money if needed.
The next day we arrived at the bus stop at 4:45am to catch the 5:00am bus. When we arrived, the line for the bus was already several hundred people long. We were afraid that we might miss our 7:00am hike to Huayna Picchu, but the line moved very quickly and we were on a bus by 5:15am. Once we had explored all of Machu Picchu, we went to the bus pick up/drop off location and boarded a bus back to Aguas Calientes.
The trail ended in the town of Yanatile, which was maybe a few dozen houses. Outside one of the first houses we came upon was a large van. We knocked on the door and said we needed to go to the Hydro Electric Station. The owner of the van did not speak any english, but communicated that it would be 65 /sol per person. He quickly changed clothes and we headed out. Again it was tight, single lane, dirt roads with massive drops and blind turns all the way to the Hydroelectric Station. We left Yanatile around 1:00pm and arrived at the Hydro Electric Station around 3:30pm.
Once at the Hydro Electric Station, we purchased train tickets to Aguas Calientes. Many people hike from the station to Aguas Calientes (about 6 miles), but we were exhausted so we purchased train tickets ($30). The train left the at 4:20pm and arrived in Aguas Calientes around 5:00pm. From there we walked to our hostel.
Car - Yanatile to the Hydroelectric Station
Cost: 65 /sol per person
Departed: Yanatile at 1:00pm
Arrived: Hydro Electric Station at 3:30pm
Train - Hydro Electric Station to Aguas Caliente
Cost: $30 per person
Departed: Hydro Electric Station at 4:20pm
Arrived: Aguas Caliente at 5:00pm
After checking into our hostel, we walked down the the bus pickup for Machu Picchu to buy tickets. There is a little kiosk across the street from where the buses pick up/drop off that sells tickets, see interactive map below. Round trip tickets to Machu Picchu were $24 per person. Buses leave Aguas Calientes every 15 minutes starting at 5:00am and run till around 6:00pm. The same bus service also brings you down the mountain, leaving every 15 minutes from Machu Picchu. We saw lots of people hiking from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu to avoid the bus fee. We were told it takes over an hour to hike up to Machu Picchu. The kiosk accepts Mastercard, USD, and /sol. There are several ATM's in Aguas Calientes at which you can withdraw money if needed.
The next day we arrived at the bus stop at 4:45am to catch the 5:00am bus. When we arrived, the line for the bus was already several hundred people long. We were afraid that we might miss our 7:00am hike to Huayna Picchu, but the line moved very quickly and we were on a bus by 5:15am. Once we had explored all of Machu Picchu, we went to the bus pick up/drop off location and boarded a bus back to Aguas Calientes.
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Bus - Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu
Cost: $24 per person Departed: Aguas Calientes at 5:15am (buses leave every 15min) Arrived: Machu Picchu at 6:00am |
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Machu Picchu to Cusco:
After returning from Machu Picchu, we made our way to the train station in Aguas Calientes to catch our train back to Cusco. There are several rail lines that run to and from Aguas Calientes, but only a few offered direct trips to Cusco. From what we saw, most rail lines run into Ollantaytambo, and it is up to you to get to Cusco from there. Getting from Ollantaytambo to Cusco is not difficult as there are taxis and several bus services. We did not know this before hand, so we booked with Inca Rail because a chartered bus to Cusco was included with our ticket. The train ride from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo was 1.5 hours and then another 2.5 hours on the bus to Cusco.
Another option for getting back includes returning to the Hydroelectric Station. There was a large parking area at the Hydroelectric station packed with taxis and buses offering rides back to Cusco or Ollantaytambo. You could take the train, or hike back to the station and catch a taxi back to Cusco.
We had purchased our tickets online before we left the US, but there was a ticket office at the train station in Aguas Calientes at which you can buy tickets to any of the rail lines. Note: if you search online, all the rail companies will list their routes to and from Machu Picchu, but the train station is actually in Aguas Calientes.
Rail companies with routes to and from Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu)
Inca Rail: incarail.com
Peru Rail: perurail.com
Train/Bus - Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo to Cusco
Inca Rail
Cost: $133 per person
Departed: Aguas Calientes at 4:20pm
Arrived: Cusco at 8:30pm
After returning from Machu Picchu, we made our way to the train station in Aguas Calientes to catch our train back to Cusco. There are several rail lines that run to and from Aguas Calientes, but only a few offered direct trips to Cusco. From what we saw, most rail lines run into Ollantaytambo, and it is up to you to get to Cusco from there. Getting from Ollantaytambo to Cusco is not difficult as there are taxis and several bus services. We did not know this before hand, so we booked with Inca Rail because a chartered bus to Cusco was included with our ticket. The train ride from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo was 1.5 hours and then another 2.5 hours on the bus to Cusco.
Another option for getting back includes returning to the Hydroelectric Station. There was a large parking area at the Hydroelectric station packed with taxis and buses offering rides back to Cusco or Ollantaytambo. You could take the train, or hike back to the station and catch a taxi back to Cusco.
We had purchased our tickets online before we left the US, but there was a ticket office at the train station in Aguas Calientes at which you can buy tickets to any of the rail lines. Note: if you search online, all the rail companies will list their routes to and from Machu Picchu, but the train station is actually in Aguas Calientes.
Rail companies with routes to and from Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu)
Inca Rail: incarail.com
Peru Rail: perurail.com
Train/Bus - Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo to Cusco
Inca Rail
Cost: $133 per person
Departed: Aguas Calientes at 4:20pm
Arrived: Cusco at 8:30pm
Cusco:
View of the city from the Cusco Packers hostel
Cusco is the main starting point for everything related to Machu Picchu. Most treks and tours start in Cusco. You can sign up for treks, local hikes, and other activities at one of the many adventure tour companies in the main square. Some of the tour companies around the square also sell camping gear where we purchased camp fuel to take on our trek. You can also visit the ticket office and purchase tickets to Machu Picchu. Even though Cusco has a lot of tourist traffic, not many people speak English. We were surprised by the number of shop owners in the main square were unable to speak even a little English, thus making buying supplies a little tricky.
Due to the amount of tourists that pass through, there are lots of hostels and hotels. Hostels are much cheaper than hotels, but but have their disadvantages such as sharing a room with other travelers, unless you book a private room. If you want to meet other travelers, hostels are the way to go.
We stayed at the Cucso Packers hostel for three nights during our trip. The first two nights at the hostel were the first days when we were acclimating and the third night was during our return trip. The manager of the hostel, Dan, was extremely helpful during our stay. He sat down and walked us through a map of the city pointing out places to see and where to eat. Dan also suggested we do a free walking tour of Cusco where we learned the history of the city while seeing the remains of ancient of palaces and other historical sites.
One advantage of Cusco Packers is that they will store a bag for you. When we packed for the trip, we made the assumption that everything we brought with us we would have to hike with. Fortunately, we were able to leave a bag of non-hiking gear at Cusco Packers during our trek and pick it up the next week on our return trip. The hostel also provided complementary breakfast, a selection of free hot drinks all day, and cold bottled water for sale (very convenient because you cannot drink the tap water in Cusco).
Bed prices are dependent on the type of room you want, and what time of year you are traveling.
Cusco Packers Hostel: http://www.cuscopackershostels.com/en/
Due to the amount of tourists that pass through, there are lots of hostels and hotels. Hostels are much cheaper than hotels, but but have their disadvantages such as sharing a room with other travelers, unless you book a private room. If you want to meet other travelers, hostels are the way to go.
We stayed at the Cucso Packers hostel for three nights during our trip. The first two nights at the hostel were the first days when we were acclimating and the third night was during our return trip. The manager of the hostel, Dan, was extremely helpful during our stay. He sat down and walked us through a map of the city pointing out places to see and where to eat. Dan also suggested we do a free walking tour of Cusco where we learned the history of the city while seeing the remains of ancient of palaces and other historical sites.
One advantage of Cusco Packers is that they will store a bag for you. When we packed for the trip, we made the assumption that everything we brought with us we would have to hike with. Fortunately, we were able to leave a bag of non-hiking gear at Cusco Packers during our trek and pick it up the next week on our return trip. The hostel also provided complementary breakfast, a selection of free hot drinks all day, and cold bottled water for sale (very convenient because you cannot drink the tap water in Cusco).
Bed prices are dependent on the type of room you want, and what time of year you are traveling.
Cusco Packers Hostel: http://www.cuscopackershostels.com/en/
Aguas Calientes:
The town of Aguas Calientes was much more touristy than Cusco. Next to the train station there is a large market selling all kinds of Machu Picchu trinkets and clothing. Most of the people we encountered in the market spoke at least a little english. The town is named for a hot spring just on the outskirts of the city. Due to rain, we did not go to the hot spring, but were told it was about a 15 minute walk from the train station and cost 20 /sol to swim. Everything in Aguas Calientes is much more expensive than Cusco. For example, a bottle of water in Cusco was around 5 /sol, but was 9 /sol in Augas Calientes.
Like Cusco, there are lots of hostels in Aguas Calientes. We stayed at the Don Andre Hostel for one night during our trip. The hostes was very accommodating and helped us with directions to the bus ticket kiosk. She also packed us breakfast to-go when she heard we were taking the 5:00am bus to Machu Picchu and offered to store our packs to avoid checking bags at the entrance.
Bed prices depend on the room type and time of year.
Don Andre Hostel: http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Don-Andre/Aguas-Calientes/271187
Like Cusco, there are lots of hostels in Aguas Calientes. We stayed at the Don Andre Hostel for one night during our trip. The hostes was very accommodating and helped us with directions to the bus ticket kiosk. She also packed us breakfast to-go when she heard we were taking the 5:00am bus to Machu Picchu and offered to store our packs to avoid checking bags at the entrance.
Bed prices depend on the room type and time of year.
Don Andre Hostel: http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Don-Andre/Aguas-Calientes/271187
Gear:
As with any backpacking trip, the Vilcabamba to Machu Picchu trek required a lot of gear.
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Camping:
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Cooking breakfast at Nusta Hispana
Clothing:
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Packing Tips and Tricks:
- Weight, Weight, Weight, Weight, Weight. We cannot stress it enough, weight is the number one priority for the Vilcabamba Trek. With the altitude, elevation, and trail conditions, the weight of your gear will fight you the whole way. That being said, we do not recommend leaving important gear behind to save weight, but instead buy and pack gear in a weight conscience manner. For example, we are fans of packing flipflops to wear around camp to give your feet a rest. When doing our packing list, the flipflops missed the cut because we could live without them for one trek.
- We packed almost everything in Ziplock bags to prevent our gear from getting wet. Gallon Ziplock bags are perfect for things like clothes and cameras and quart sized ones are great for spare batteries other smaller items.
- If your hostel or hotel will not store a bag for you, you could end up hiking with everything you brought into Peru. Since we did not know that our hostel in Cusco would allow us to leave a bag, we did not bring anything extra to avoid having to hike with it.
- Take "throw away" clothes to avoid hiking with extra clothing. Before we knew we could leave a bag at our hostel, we planned on throwing away the clothes we traveled to Peru in to help shed weight. We did not end up throwing away any clothes, but it is a good option to have a day or so of clean clothes before the hike, but not have to take them with you.
- Replace the batteries in all your hiking electronics before you leave in order to minimize the number of spare batteries you take.
- Try and purchase gear that uses the same battery type so you do not need to carry multiple sizes. Our GPS and Steri Pen used the same battery size so we only took enough to replace the batteries in one unit, but could move them to the other if required.
- Invest in lighter gear. We both shaved over a pound off our pack weight by upgrading to warmer, but lighter sleeping bags. There are tons of ways to help shave a few ounces here and there off your gear. Literally every ounce counts on an intense trek.
Route Info:
Below is an elevation plot of the trek and an interactive map of our entire trip. It includes our bus trip, hike, car ride, and train rides. There is also a downloadable file with the GPS points of the trek that can be loaded into Google Maps, Garmin basecamp, or any other mapping software.
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Interactive map of the entire trip
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Elevation plot of trek.
-Click to Enlarge-
-Click to Enlarge-
| Huancacalle to Yanitile GPS Trek |
Next Time:
There are a few things we would do differently if we were able to redo the trip. The main changes would revolve around the travel time and methods.
Changes to itinerary:
We left Cusco and tried to make it to Huacacalle on the same day. Had our first bus been delayed by even 30 minutes we would have missed the second bus. Also, we were unable to see the ruins of the Spanish Mill because we did not have enough time in our hiking schedule. To account for both of these problems, we would split the trip from Cusco to Huancacalle into two days. We would take the tour bus or minibus from Cusco to Quillabamba on day one and spend the night. There are several hostels in Quillabamba close to the bus terminals. Then on day two, we would catch the minibus or taxi to Huancacalle. In an ideal situation, we would get to Huancacalle sometime mid-late morning of day two.
There are several advantages to this itinerary. After arriving in Huancacalle, we would hike the loop to see the ruins of the Spanish Mill and Vitcos ending at Nusta Hispana where we would camp for the night. This way would allow us to avoid being in a hurry while exploring the different ruins, making the time much more enjoyable. Also, it would push the first full day of hiking back one day while shaving a few miles off the first day making the subsequent days shorter. The hike to Vitcos and back added over 2 miles and several hours to our first day. With that extra time, you could take the first ascent slower, or push the first ascent to have a shorter second day hike where the elevation really kicks in. The downside is adding a day to the trip. We spent two full days acclimating in Cusco, but we could have caught the late night tour bus to Quillabamba on the second night and not really lost much acclimation time. Alternatively, we could have just added a day to the trip.
Changes to itinerary:
We left Cusco and tried to make it to Huacacalle on the same day. Had our first bus been delayed by even 30 minutes we would have missed the second bus. Also, we were unable to see the ruins of the Spanish Mill because we did not have enough time in our hiking schedule. To account for both of these problems, we would split the trip from Cusco to Huancacalle into two days. We would take the tour bus or minibus from Cusco to Quillabamba on day one and spend the night. There are several hostels in Quillabamba close to the bus terminals. Then on day two, we would catch the minibus or taxi to Huancacalle. In an ideal situation, we would get to Huancacalle sometime mid-late morning of day two.
There are several advantages to this itinerary. After arriving in Huancacalle, we would hike the loop to see the ruins of the Spanish Mill and Vitcos ending at Nusta Hispana where we would camp for the night. This way would allow us to avoid being in a hurry while exploring the different ruins, making the time much more enjoyable. Also, it would push the first full day of hiking back one day while shaving a few miles off the first day making the subsequent days shorter. The hike to Vitcos and back added over 2 miles and several hours to our first day. With that extra time, you could take the first ascent slower, or push the first ascent to have a shorter second day hike where the elevation really kicks in. The downside is adding a day to the trip. We spent two full days acclimating in Cusco, but we could have caught the late night tour bus to Quillabamba on the second night and not really lost much acclimation time. Alternatively, we could have just added a day to the trip.
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Our Itinerary:
Day 1: Cusco to Huancacalle. Camp at Nusta Hispana Day 2: Hike to Vitcos, then backtrack to the main trail and hike to Racachaca Day 3: Hike Racachaca to Mutuypata Day 4: Mutuypata to Yanitile |
Next Time:
Day 1: Cusco to Quillabamba Day 2: Quillabamba to Huancacalle. Hike to the ruins of the Spanish Mill, Vitcos, and Nusta Hispana. Camp Nusta Hispana. Day 3: Nusta Hispana to Racachaca Day 4: Racachaca to Mutuypata Day 5: Mutuypata to Yanitile |
Pictures:
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Video:
Questions/Comments: